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More Training Info > BUSHWHACK RATING
THE CASCADE BUSHWHACK RATING SYSTEM
by Mark Dale (c)
Okay, let's get some things out in the open before we start. I consider myself a mountaineer, an alpinist. The term climber is too generic these days. It wasn't always that way. Now, more often than not, a climber refers to a lycra-clad rock gymnast, performing incredible feats on vertical and overhanging manufactured rock walls, or at popular and easily accessible crags, all the time being watched and judged by peers (or adoring crowds if you're really good). I'm more likely to be found on some obscure peak miles from nowhere, ascending mildly technical rock, snow, or ice. An environment where the dynamics of nature can't be ignored, where conditions and the character of the climb itself might change rapidly. Places you have to bust your tail to get into and out of. Destinations that aren't featured in the glossy magazines. I abhor crowds.
I get a perverse sort of pleasure in battling the primeval vegetation that surrounds the great ranges of the Northwest. I mean, it's a necessary part of mountaineering in the temperate rain forests along the north Pacific coast. And after you've done it for as many years as I, well, it kind of warps your perspective on things. I have been guilty of leading gullible climbing partners into the most incredible thrashes that can be imagined to ascend some forgotten route. One might be surprised at how many mountain travelers, no t only here but in other parts of the continent, even worldwide, share these ignominious traits. Miscreants who think a sharp stick in the eye IS fun!
The problem I've had is communicating to others of this genre, in some objective form, the specific difficulties of any particular bushwhack. Sure, there are lots of subjective ways to describe memorable approaches to climbs...
"It was ugly, real ugly"
"A freaking flail!!"
"Oh, not too bad, but I did lose a pint of blood"
"The brush was so thick, my dog had to back up to
bark!"
I could go on but you get the idea. Strictly subjective, this stuff, and even meaningless depending on the masochistic tendencies of the orator. What's missing here is something more definitive. What we need is a way to portray in a more precise manner those endearing struggles with the brush. Therefore I propose the Cascade Bushwhack Rating System.
This system is so named since most of my climbing experience has taken place in the Washington Cascade range. However, it's perfectly applicable to other ranges of a similar nature, e.g., the Olympics, the Northern Selkirks, the coastal mountains of Alaska and British Columbia, to name a few. Just like the Yosemite Decimal System is used throughout North America to describe the technical difficulties of a climb, so is the Cascade Bushwhack Rating System germane to brush beating throughout the world.
For the purposes of this system, a "bushwhack" entails that part of a climb or journey below the alpine region of meadows, rock, and snow. In other words, where the vegetation itself impedes progress. Before defining the rating nomenclature here are a few guidelines for describing your favorite thrash;
- A rating should apply to snow-free conditions in the brush, since snowpack greatly affects most bushwhacks, reducing their difficulty considerably.
- More demanding terrain, e.g., cliffy or steep, will increase a bushwhack's difficulty and grade as compared to one with the same vegetation cover on level ground.
- Both the density and type of brush are important factors when rating a "whack". I'll take an open area of devil's club over a dense stand of slide alder any day!
- Grade is determined by both time and distance involved in completing the approach, as well as the duration of difficulties.
- Since creek and river crossings play an important part of many approaches, a special subrating has been devised for these.
- When a mechanical device such as a machete is used the bushwhack is no longer "free", and an aid subrating must be used.
FREE DIFFICULTY RATINGS
These apply to the "free" difficulties (no aid used) and range from BW1 to BW5, where BW stands for "bushwhack". Difficulty ratings apply to those areas of worst brush that can't be reasonably avoided.
BW1 - Light brush, travel mostly unimpeded, only occasional use of hands required (e.g., mature open forest).
BW2 - Moderate brush with occasional heavy patches. Pace slowed, frequent use of hands required.
BW3 - Heavy brush, hands needed constantly, some loss of blood may occur due to scratches and cuts, travel noticeably hindered. Voluntary use of expletives at times.
BW4 - Severe brush, pace less than 1 mile per hour if continuous. Leather gloves and heavy clothing required or significant flesh wounds will occur. Much involuntary profanity and mental anguish. Thick stands of brush requiring circumnavigation are encountered.
BW5 - Extreme brush, multiple hours needed to travel 1 mile of this stuff, full armor desirable. Wounds to extremities likely, eye protection needed. Footing difficult due to lack of visibility. Tearful blabbering and suicidal tendencies sometimes exhibited by participants.
AID DIFFICULTY RATINGS
When artificial means are used to penetrate brush, then an aid rating should be used to describe the device required. These ratings range from BA1 to BA5, where BA stands for "brush aid".
BA1 - Machete or sickle
BA2 - Gas powered weedeater
BA3 - Chainsaw
BA4 - Agent Orange
BA5 - Bulldozer
CREEK AND RIVER RATINGS
These ratings are used to describe the difficulty in crossing watercourses. They range from WA1 to WA5, where WA stands for "water". These ratings will change seasonally, but are generally assumed to apply during average summer conditions.
WA1 - Dry crossing is easily done by stepping on rocks or logs.
WA2 - Possible wet crossing, but dry crossing feasible with some finesse.
WA3 - Wet crossing unavoidable, ankle to knee deep. Little chance of losing footing.
WA4 - Wet crossing, knee to hip deep, some chance of going for a swim due to current and/or poor footing.
WA5 - Wet crossing, hip deep or greater, distinct possibility of being swept downstream.
GRADES
Grades range from I to VI and follow the same general guidelines as climbing grades.
Grade I - Brush beating can be done in a few hours or less.
Grade II - Generally will take somewhat less than half a
day.
Grade III - Could take most of a day, but hardened parties
will be able to complete in a short day.
Grade IV - Will take a long day and involve continuous
battle.
Grade V - A 1 to 2 day bushwhack, large quantities of wound
dressings will be needed unless properly attired.
Grade VI - The most extreme of bushwhacks, requiring over 2
days to complete with probably some BW4 to BW5
difficulties encountered along the way.
Following are some examples of rated bushwhacks in the Northwest as a guide;
- Southern Picket Range, Goodell Creek Approach, Grade III-IV, BW4
- Mt. Shuksan, White Salmon Creek Approach, Grade I-III (depending on route taken), BW4
- Mt. Spickard, Silver Creek Approach, Grade V, BW5
- Mt. Blum, Blum Lakes Approach, Grade III, BW3, WA5
- Devil's Peak, Coal Creek Approach, Grade I, BW2
- Burnt Boot Peak, Middle Fork Approach, Grade III, BW4, WA3
- Monashes, Thor Creek Approach, Grade VI, BW4, BA1
- Mt. Fairweather, Saltwater Approach, Grade III-IV, BW4-BW5
- Mt. Foraker, Somber Creek Approach, Grade VI, BW4
And there you have it! No longer must one try to decipher the deranged mutterings of a victim of jungle warfare. A person need only apply the appropriate brush ratings to relate his or her brutal experience to others. And who knows? With advances in bush technology and the competitive nature of climbers, we'll probably see difficulties pushed to BW6 and beyond. And there just HAVE to be some Grade VII's out there. So come on, fellow bush rats! The next time you report a mountaineering trip that involves green hell, use the Cascade Bushwhack Rating System to tell others about it. They'll be glad you did.
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