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The Outdoor Athlete Book by Courtenay and Doug Schurman



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Sport Specific > Climbing-Rock > Power-Endurance Training

Power-Endurance Training (III of IV)

Now that you have increased your forearm endurance (part I: 4 weeks of Endurance climbing training) and finger strength (part II: 3 weeks of Power Training), part III merges the two together in 2 weeks of power stamina training, followed by a week or two of active recovery in Part IV. For optimal results, try the whole 10-week program in sequence and keep a progress journal for feedback on how your body handles it.

CLIMBING

Power-Endurance means exactly what it sounds like: being able to sustain powerful moves like those you worked on in Part II, for 1-5 minutes at a time. Most people actually train this way in the gym, and then wonder why they suffer from tendon strains. Because this method of training is quite intense on your nervous, muscular, and tendon systems, it's best to limit this sort of training to two weeks, putting 2 or 3 rest days between workouts. This would be a great time to take some of the project toprope routes you were working on during week 1 of your Power cycle (a grade or two higher than your previous redpoint prior to endurance training cycle I) and see if you can redpoint them now without stopping. Your goal by the end of the Power-Endurance phase is to redpoint routes 2-4 grades higher than you were previously able to do!

STRENGTH TRAINING

This is an opportune time to give your body a break from doing pullups, fingerboard strength training, and any other direct pulling or biceps work. Focus instead on balancing out those muscles with supplemental tricep work (like tricep dips, dumbbell extensions, narrow grip pushups), front shoulder work (such as front raises or overhead presses), and chest work such as dumbbell presses, pushups, or flyes. This is also a good time to work on core strengthening: abdominal and lower back work Continue to finish each climbing workout with pronators and reverse curls to keep the forearms happy.



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